Discover Soulac and the Médoc: My Favorite Places
As a Soulac resident for over 30 years, I am delighted to share my favourite local spots with you, including markets, dining options, hidden beaches, cycling routes, and unique treasures of the Médoc, ensuring that your stay at Zen Ocean Soulac is as enjoyable as mine. Explore each category to discover my top recommendations.
Fresh and local products
Food Shopping
My top places for the best produce from the Médoc, from goat’s cheese to oysters from the harbour.
Markets
The covered market in Soulac is open every morning from 9am to 1pm (and from 6pm to 8pm in July and August). My favourites: Ludo’s fresh Médoc goat’s cheese at the large cheese stall, Wanaka for takeaways and couscous (absolutely delicious), and farm-fresh oysters at Neyran harbour (go for the number 3s).
The market in Saint-Vivien, on the church square, every Wednesday from 9am to 12.30pm.
Supermarkets
The nearest one is Carrefour, a 15-minute walk away. Lidl is near the train station. Spar is in the town centre behind the market (more expensive than Carrefour and Lidl).
Bakeries
Une institution : Vallat, avec sa crème aux noisettes faite maison.
Icecream
L’incontournable de l’été à Soulac : Judici, le temple de la glace, rue de la plage, presque au bout à gauche en direction de la mer.
My favourite tables
Where to eat well
From Soulac to the little oyster-fishing ports in the surrounding area – this is where I’d send you in a blindfold.
My favorits in Soulac
LB: my favourite. A great place to eat all year round, with fresh produce; in summer you can sit on the terrace on a street in the town centre. If you have any food intolerances, Jérôme, the chef and owner, will come and suggest a special dish for you in person. 6 Rue Fernand Lafargue, bookings on 05 56 09 92 60.
Les Chiens Fous: for the sea view, on the seafront at the corner.
Martine à la plage: for the view and the friendly atmosphere. Brasserie, galettes, breakfast, all-day dining, superb smoothies and non-alcoholic cocktails. THE place to watch the sunset.
L’Auberge In: a cosy little crêperie full of atmosphere on a lovely little square.
La Brasserie de la plage: with your feet (almost) in the sand. Fresh local fish, and sometimes live music in the summer. What makes it special: it’s completely dismantled after each season and rebuilt in April.
Le Bar des amis: the place not to be missed. Tapas, the vibe of a local pub that’s become ‘trendy’, with the occasional live music. On Sunday lunchtimes, they serve oysters.
Ola – La Cantina: very nice, behind the market. It’s tiny, so it’s best to book in summer. 25 rue Trouche, 06 49 75 05 91.
In the harbor in Saint-Vivien
In the old oyster-farming huts.
Le Kajak Café — on the banks of a small canal; ask for a table on the jetty! A small menu featuring local produce: oysters, prawns, potatoes, fresh goat’s cheese, green salad. 06 49 27 30 05.
Cabanon du pêcheur — by the canal, very rustic, generous portions of fish and chips.
La Cabane du Port — a crêperie by the canal, very cosy.
In Le Verdon
At the old harbour in Le Verdon, known for its oysters:
Le Vestiaire: one of my favourite spots, best for lunch (mosquitoes in the evening). Local produce, oysters, fresh fish.
La Cabane à Crêpes: right next door, a lovely crêperie with very friendly service.
La Gabelle: a little further on, same vibe. A small menu of fresh produce, lovely views over the fields from the tables at the back.
In Le Verdon:
La Gam’guette: on the road to Soulac, a proper open-air café set around a prawn pond, where you can enjoy prawns with chips. Summer only; booking recommended. 05 56 09 67 55.
La Guinguette de la Maison de Grave: deep in the forest, open in summer (and on certain weekends in spring and autumn). Simple, light dishes, but a really friendly atmosphere. Watch out for mosquitoes at sunset.
L’Escale: on the banks of the estuary, at Chambrette beach. You can eat with your feet in the sand whilst enjoying views of Royan. Taken over by the owner of the Bar des Amis. Great atmosphere, with the occasional live music.
In the harbor from Talais
Le Relais de Sophie: mainly seafood. The sunset over the landscape of water basins and fields is simply magical.
Sand & baignade
The most beautiful beaches
From the unspoilt beach at La Négade to the famous Arros swimming pools, just 300 metres from the house.
Négade Beach
South of Soulac, the wildest spot, with a lovely view towards Anse du Gurp. A 25-minute cycle (8 km). On Google, search for ‘Ulmo Surf School’ to find the right location.
The beach of Maison de Grave
At Au Verdon, discover a wild beach just 27 minutes away by bicycle along the scenic 5 km cycle path, an 8-minute drive, or a pleasant hour’s walk via the hiking trail that starts just behind the house.
The beach Les Arros & the pools
Our beach, 300 metres away, with its famous pools. There are several access points to the sea between the pools. The largest one, the furthest north (Cantines Beach), is nicknamed the ‘infinity pool’: ideal for swimming.
A bit of history: these pools were built in the 1930s to combat coastal erosion (nothing to do with the war). You can still see the rails that were used to transport the blocks using a steam-powered crane; the artificial blocks were cast on site.
History & visits
Places to visit & heritage
The treasures of the Pointe du Médoc, from thousand-year-old lighthouses to the spirulina farm.
Soulac Basilica
The 11th-century basilica, a pilgrims’ church: Soulac lies on the coastal route to Santiago de Compostela.
The 500 Soulac Villas And Museums
The 500 villas in Soulac form a veritable open-air museum: enquire about guided tours at the tourist office (also via the app or online).
The Museum of Art and Archaeology, established in 1988, displays artefacts from archaeological sites in the Médoc; the bronze wild boar is particularly impressive. Open in the afternoon – if you’re lucky.
Lighthouses
The Cordouan Lighthouse, the king of lighthouses (1611): a must-see at least once in a lifetime. The La Bohème boats offer trips depending on the tides, departing from Port Médoc (a 40-minute cycle from Soulac). Around €50, but it’s definitely worth it.
Pointe de Grave Lighthouse (1860), with a beautiful view of the estuary and a fascinating museum at the bottom. 40 mins along the cycle path.
The Richard Lighthouse (1843), 25 km away, maintained by the locals. A small lighthouse with a museum and lovely views of the estuary; the fishing huts nearby are well worth a visit. Next door: the crêperie at Goulée harbour.
Spirulina Farm
The ‘La Pointe d’Argent’ farm, on the road to Saint-Vivien harbour: the owners offer guided tours and explain how they produce their goods. It’s really very interesting – do give them a call to find out the opening times.
By bike, on the water, in the air
Activities & walks
Miles of cycle paths, surf schools and even a first-time skydiving experience.
Cycle rides
The Verdon Loop (half-day or full-day): from the cycle path behind the house to the headland, with stops at the Maison de Grave, the little Saint-Nicolas lighthouse, the Grave lighthouse, and a seafood tasting near the jetty.
The Ports Circuit: Talais and Saint-Vivien (half-day): cycle path heading south to the Pointe de la Négade, then on to Talais and the port of Saint-Vivien.
Active outing to Montalivet (in the morning): 25 km along a superb cycle path through the forest, skirting the coast towards the end.
Sports & sensations
Surf :
NV Surf School et Ulmo Surf School à la Négade, Soulac
Surfing: NV Surf School and Ulmo Surf School at La Négade, Soulac Surf School (equipment hire) near the town centre, Fish & Twins at Les Cantines (Le Verdon).
Sailing: the Le Verdon sailing centre.
Parachuting: tandem first jump with the enthusiastic team at XLR Parachutisme.
Scooters: rides to off-the-beaten-track spots with Olivier, Trott in Médoc.
Sea fishing: trips with Yves, a professional, Médoc en Mer.
Cinema & library
The cinema, which is open all year round next to the tourist office (opposite the market), screens arthouse films in their original language every Monday.
The library, next to the market, has an impressive collection for such a small village, and membership is open to everyone.
Rue de la plage
Shopping
The whole of Rue de la Plage is perfect for a spot of window shopping. Here are my favourite shops.
Mes favoris shopping
La Mailloterie: right at the start of Rue de la Plage, the prettiest swimwear.
Rives d’Estuaire: some really lovely shoes (and more).
Secrets des Femmes: lingerie and swimwear, a little shop on Rue de la Plage, opposite Judici.
Comptoir des Îles: the most beautiful fabrics, near Judici.
Mer de Sable: 2 Rue Brémontier.
Couleurs Nature: 24 Rue Trouche – a true artist who makes jewellery.
Delphine: for flowers, at the Soulac market – the only stall selling flowers grown in Soulac.
For a peaceful stay
Useful contacts
Everything you need at your fingertips: transport, and the right contacts for health and wellbeing.
Getting around
Bike hire: Cyclostar in the town centre and Ericycle near the station. Outside July and August, I can contact a hire company in Le Verdon that delivers bikes.
Taxi to the station: Carine, 06 56 67 75 95.
Health Care & Wellbeing
Doctor: Dr Oddos, near the station (on Doctolib).
Dentist: Dr Manon Ruban, Saint-Vivien, 06 81 13 18 34.
Osteopaths: Sandra Hospital (Montalivet) 06 58 23 40 89, Damien Roos (Montalivet) 06 90 35 61 03, Anna Teyssier (Soulac) 06 11 66 69 38.
Naturopath: Pascale Zouari (Soulac) 06 20 80 64 89.
Want to settle down in Soulac?
Book one of our guest rooms or our unique chalet, and enjoy all these places from your peaceful retreat, just 300 meters from the sea.